Woodshop 51503

	Delta Splitter for Contractors Saw Click Photo To Enlarge The Delta splitter installed and ready to go. It is a fairly simple installation. For complete instructions here is a link to the manual. It is on pages 6,7 & 8 of the manual shown which is for a complete overarm blade guard and splitter. I believe the part is about 30.00 if I remember right and the part # is 1349941 and I ordered it directly from Delta. Here is a photo taken thru the throat plate hole. It shows how the assembled splitter mounts on the trunion. Basically you remove the old interior splitter/guard mount by removing two hex head bolts and replace it with the new splitter mount and attach to the right side holes with the bushings and bolts supplied.   A big thankyou to all the Creekers out there that helped me by supplying info and photos, especially Todd Davidson. Click Photo To Enlarge

	Adjustable Dado Jig Click All Photos To Enlarge This jig allows you to make a dado to match exactly the the work piece to be inserted into the dado. The jig has a sliding mechanism that allows you to insert a piece of the actual workpiece which indexes the dado size. Simply tighten up the adjustment knobs which are held in place with a 5/16 T-nut and a 5/16 star knob. The jig is made from mdf and uses a fence on each side, one is fixed and one is sliding. The router rides up against the fence and for larger dados you simply go back against the other fence and finish the dado. Good for dados up to 1 1/2 inches.   In the second photo you can see the jig being indexed with a work piece in it.                 In the third photo you can see the other side of the jig with the sliding blocks on the end that allow you to dial in the dado size. The blocks also allow you to square the jig to the workpiece.

	Shop Helpers - Push Blocks Click Photo To Enlarge Here are several of my push blocks that I use in my shop. You should always have plenty of push sticks and blocks in the shop. I use these on my table saw and router table. The one in the bottom of the photo is one I use on my table saw. It allows you to hold down boards while working close to the blade and without fear of hurting yourself. Pefect for when you have to rip and edge on a small piece. The hold down on the back of all of these are easily replaced by making a new one out of hardboard or mdf and screw them back on. The long boat style ones can be used on a table saw, router table or jointer and are meant for use where you need to hold a piece down flat like when doing a thru groove on the router table or table saw. The work great. I use the larger one on my table saw and the smaller one on my router table. When I am board and have an hour or so to kill in the shop I make some kind of push board. It is great to have all kinds of shapes and styles that allow you to safely do what you need to do.  When I get ready to work  I always make sure I have several diffent push sticks and blocks handy and ready!!

	Cross Cut Sled Click To Enlarge Photo Click To Enlarge Photo Click To Enlarge Photo Click Photo To Enlarge           Here is my cross cut sled. I built it out of 3/4 Birch plywood with southern yellow pine runners. I placed the runners in their slots and placed the plywood base on top of them, using the saw fence locked down and the base slid up to the wanted position. I added the front rail (the rail at the back of the fence) and screwed it down parallel to the edge of the plywood. On the front fence I made a dado on the router table to hold a section of Rockler Ttrack. The stop block slides in the track. I also added 2 rows of 5/16 Tnuts spaced ever 2 inches. These were for the hold downs. In this configuration they can be placed anywhere on the sled to hold down any side of workpiece. I screwed down the right side of the fence. I then cut thru the front rail with blade raised to about 2 inches and cut a little more than halfway and shut the saw off. With a carpenters square I lined up the short blade of the square to the saw blade and the long blade to the fence and adjusted until pefectly square to the blade. I clamped the other side in this position and maked the position on the front of the fence with a pencil. I removed the sled from the saw, then added a screw to the that end of the fence. It took a few test cuts and adjusting to make sure all was square. I then put a few more screws in to lock down the fence. I added a heel to the rear of the saw for saftey purposes. Fairly easy project for the shop!

	Miter Sled - Shop Made Click Photo To Enlarge Click Photo To Enlarge Click Photo To Enlarge     This is a great project for your table saw if you do a lot of miters. The advantage to this type of miter sled vs a miter guage is the you can cut corresponding miters to make a perfect matched corner. Construction is pretty simple. 2 x 2 plywood base, southern yellow pine runners and 1 x 4 miter fences. I used a front and rear rail to help hold the jig together and stable. In the rear I used a 1 x 6 piece to make a taller section to hold on to and help keep your hand out of the blades path. I also used three 1x4's stacked and placed in front of the tall fence for saftey. I my right hand on top of the tall rear rail and the left on the workpiece being cut for a very safe cut. Reverse for the mating cut. As usual, thanks to all my freinds at Saw Mill Creek for all there excellent help and ideas!